Yuncheng Salt Lake Mud Bath Resort is seemingly THE attraction when it comes to things to do in Yuncheng, Shanxi Province.
And I can confirm this has pretty much been the state of affairs for the last 18 years, with me having previously visited circa 2006/2007. So, what has changed, what is the same and why the bloody hell would I go somewhere so effeminate?
What the Yuncheng
Located (due to the new fast train) just 1 hour from Xi’an north, this is the first part of Shanxi after you leave Shaanxi (look closely there is one extra A).
You can read about Shaanxi cuisine here.
Aside from being a frontier border post it is also famous for being the home of great warrior Guan Yu, and well the Salt Lake. Economically they export salt and tractors, in that order. It is a cool town and despite missing each other for 18 years we bonded again.
Getting to Salt Lake City AKA Qi Cai Yan Hu
I’m just kidding there are no Mormons (not to be confused with the Moomins) here. Funny story I once welcomed in Mormons to the house I shared with my brother. I then went off to sea and they kept coming for months. Don’t worry he did not convert.
The salt lakes though and the dead sea pretty much sit on the edge of Yuncheng, so you can just take a taxi, which is 15-30 minutes, or $3 at worst.
On the way and if you have a nice driver you can look at the multi-coloured (8) lakes. Sadly it was raining and I saw two, but I at least liked the sentiment.
Entering the resort area AKA Qi Cai Yan Hu you are surrounded by the dead sea part, stunning mountains, gardens and infamous resort!
Qi Cai Yan Hu THE Resort
So as I said the resort was open 18 years ago and for the most part since, yet recently it was closed only to reopen like 3 days before I arrived. None of this was planned it was just good fortune. Sometimes I think I am really lucky, then I remember that no, I’m an England and Arsenal fan.
I digress…..So theres the big resort area, which I will deal with after, but also people being bussed in, I assume from not that far away for they health spa.
On entry and assuming you are not staying here (I was not) you pay your money, just under $30 for 5 experiences. Cheap right? Well you then end up buying a swimming hat (compulsory) and potentially even swimming costumes and goggles (optional).
After this you can get your freak on……
Experience One at Yuncheng Salt Lake Mud Resort
Pretty much a glorified swimming pool, but has slat and minerals inside it which mean only 20 minutes of swimming may be had. This is much like the Hot Springs Resort Nampho North Korea. Currently no one knows what happens if you hit 21 minutes……
This was pretty much as it was 18 years ago although the pool had been given a bit of makeover.
Experience Two at Yuncheng Salt Lake Mud Bath Resort
This looked shit – quite literally, with it being a big brown pool that looked like you’d had the runs. In actuality it was quite cool with their being headrests and a guide ready to set you floating.
Of course I did this without the rest as I am pretty gangster, with you then just floating, whilst smelling sulphur. They had a screen on the ceiling, but I could barely understand whatever crap – no pun intended that they were chatting.
Here they also had, like seemingly everywhere in China an “influencer” live streaming. I did everything I could to make a cameo here.
Experience Three at Yuncheng Salt Lake Mud Bath Resort
A sauna of sorts with sulfur that would apparently clear your sinuses. I lasted 30 seconds because much like Honeker of the German Democratic Republic I hate saunas.
Fun fact Finland gifted him a sauna that he hated so much he placed it in North Korea. I’m sure this would be OK if it was your thing, but its not mine.
Experience Four at Yuncheng Salt Lake Mud Resort
In fact parts 4 and 5 of the experience were in the same room and consisted of what I thought was a sand pit, but was actually a slat pit where you could if you so desired play with buckets and spades, much like on Nha Trang beach.
I went for it and actually got buried as well as eating a piece of salt, because that is how I roll!
Experience five at Yuncheng Salt Lake Mud Resort
Finally I had arrived to the place I wanted to be, the mud bath! This consisted of a big mud bath, as well as smaller individual ones. The deal then is that you cake yourself in mud and get to feel “better”. I more saw it as being rather amusing.
I did though manage to get myself fully “mudded up”, which is not to be confused with a Trudeau moment…..
When you are fully satisfied you then get to shower off, which was really hard work and I am still finding mud 24 hours later.
Experience six at Yuncheng Salt Lake Mud Resort
Whilst I can speak Chinese pretty well I read at a 5 year old level, quite the irony with me being such a lyrical gangster on text in English.
This meant I thought there were 7 experiences, not 5. I also thought that you finished in a quite literal swimming pool as this is what I had done 18 years previously. Alas it was not to be, with one of the last things you do being your “free dinner”.
The Qi Cai Yan Hu Dinner
I have had a lot of bad experiences when it comes to free dinners in China, but this buffet largely blew me away. It consisted of a lot of major Chinese dishes, such as beef and potato, as well as fried noodles and rice.
There was also a War Xing Ten section that had chips. As a proud Englishman I do like chips with ketchup and some nuggets. Regular soft drinks were also free.
How much did Qi Cai Yan Hu cost?
The hotel here costs 500 rob, or $70 USD a night and looked pretty good, as well as offering extra services for residents. Alas I did not stay here, this time at least.
For the rest of us Muggles it was 229 RMB, or almost $30, which by China standards is actually fairly good value (and included the aforementioned dinner). China is not the cheap place that it once was.
This though should be coupled with the fact you NEED a swimming hat that cost about $5, as well as the Nazi like staff of the shop trying to up sell you shit you don’t need. This was though the only very minor negative.
The Qi Cai Yan Hu after party?
As night falls this peninsula, gardens and waterways clearly becomes the place to be as hundreds of people come out for the water, views and sunset.
Here one can walk around enjoy the dead see go out on the walkways and just enjoy nature. Said nature is really emphasized by the truly awe inspiring mountains on the one side, as well as Vegas like city view on the other. In fact you could even imagine Bilbo Baggins hanging out here.
And then there was the truly golden sunset which was just the icing on the cake.
Conclusion on Yuncheng Salt Late Mud Bath Resort
So, while Qi Cai Yan Hu and the Yuncheng Salt Late Mud Bath Resort might not exactly justify a journey from the UK it is worth a visit of you happen to be in the area.
That Yuncheng has a cracking street food scene it just a big phat Brucey Bonus.
You can check out my new China Tours with YPT on this link.