If you’re heading to the Isle of Wight, you’ve got two main options—the ferry or the hovercraft. While the hovercraft looks like something out of a Bond movie and gets you across in just 10 minutes, I opted for the classic Wightlink ferry from Portsmouth to Ryde, which takes a leisurely 22 minutes and offers a more old-school travel experience.
The ferry links directly to the train at Portsmouth Harbour, making it the easiest and most hassle-free way to get to the Isle of Wight. You step off the train, walk into the terminal, and before you know it, you’re sailing across the Solent.
But what’s the journey actually like? Let’s break it down.
Ferry vs. Hovercraft – Which One to Choose?
Before we get into the details of the ferry ride itself, let’s talk about your options.
- Wightlink Ferry (22 minutes) – This is the cheaper and more traditional option. The ferry runs every 30 minutes to an hour, linking Portsmouth Harbour directly with Ryde Pier Head, where you can either walk or take a small train into town. It’s got an indoor lounge, a bar, and an outdoor deck, so you can actually enjoy the trip.
- Hovertravel Hovercraft (10 minutes) – This is the fastest option, running between Southsea (Portsmouth) and Ryde Esplanade. It’s twice as fast as the ferry, but it doesn’t link directly to the train, meaning you’ll need to take a taxi or a bus to the hovercraft terminal first. The ride looks epic—like a low-budget sci-fi movie set—but you’re stuck inside for the whole trip, so you don’t get the same open-air experience.
For me, the ferry wins, purely because of the views, the convenience, and the fact that you can grab a drink on board.
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How Much Does It Cost?
Prices for the Portsmouth to Ryde ferry depend on whether you’re walking on, taking a bike, or bringing a car. The ferry is run by Wightlink, and here’s what you’re looking at:
- Foot Passenger (One Way) – £11.70 ($15)
- Foot Passenger (Return) – £23.40 ($30)
- Bike (One Way) – £11.70 ($15)
- Car + Driver (One Way) – Around £60+ ($75+) depending on size and season
If you book in advance or use rail and ferry combo tickets, you can sometimes get it cheaper. For example, TrainPal found me a split ticket deal where my full London Victoria to Ryde journey only cost £27 ($35).
The hovercraft, meanwhile, costs:
- One Way – £14.50 ($18)
- Return – £29 ($36)
It’s more expensive than the ferry and doesn’t include rail connections, so unless you’re in a rush, the ferry is better value.
Onboard the Ferry – Old-School Vibes with a Bar
Once you board the ferry, the first thing you’ll notice is the relaxed pace of everything. There’s no security faff, no mad rush—just a big boat and a bunch of people either heading home or off on holiday.
There’s an indoor lounge with plenty of seats, but if the weather is good, you’ll want to be on the top deck. The views are worth it—you get a great look at Portsmouth’s famous Spinnaker Tower, the old dockyards, and even the odd warship or cruise liner sailing past.
They make a big deal about the bar, and yes—you can buy alcohol on board. Prices are steep:
- Beer – £6 ($7.50)
- Wine – £7 ($9)
- Spirits & Mixers – £8-£10 ($10-$12)
It’s nice to have the option, but I wasn’t about to pay £10 for a weak vodka and coke. Still, plenty of people were making the most of it—especially those heading to the Isle of Wight Festival or just making the most of their holiday.
Food-wise, the ferry isn’t exactly a gourmet experience. You can grab snacks, sandwiches, and overpriced coffee, but don’t expect anything beyond the usual ferry fare—dry pastries, sad sandwiches, and instant noodles for people who forgot to eat before boarding.
Smoking, Vaping, and the Rules You Can Get Away With
If you’re a smoker, don’t get your hopes up. Smoking is banned on the ferry, even on the top deck. That said, vaping is a different story. While it’s technically not allowed, plenty of people were discreetly puffing away on the top deck without issue. Be subtle, and no one will bother you.
The Final Stretch – Arriving at Ryde Pier Head
22 minutes later, and you’re in Ryde. The ferry docks directly at Ryde Pier Head, which means you have two choices:
- Walk the pier – It’s one of the longest in the UK, so it’s a 10-minute walk into town.
- Take the pier train – A small train runs along the pier straight into Ryde Esplanade station, where you can connect to buses or trains to other parts of the island.
It’s a smooth, hassle-free arrival, and before you know it, you’re officially on the Isle of Wight—ready to explore or head straight to the nearest pub – The King Lud.
Final Thoughts – Is the Ferry from Portsmouth to Ryde Worth It?
Absolutely. It’s cheap, easy, and way more enjoyable than most UK train journeys. The fact that it connects directly to the railway makes it the best way to reach the Isle of Wight, and while it’s not the fastest route (that’s the hovercraft), it’s definitely the more relaxed and scenic option.
Would I recommend it? Yes. Would I pay £10 for a mixed drink onboard? Absolutely not.