With news that Rason will be the first place in North Korea to open to tourism, I am reminded of one of the most epic trips I have ever taken: traversing the borderlands of North Korea—a journey I undertook many times.
In many ways, this was almost the perfect road trip. We exited North Korea via Tumen and then drove all the way along the border of North Korea, passing briefly past Russia and, for the most part, China, all the way to Dandong.
I always felt this was not only one of our most underrated trips but also, ironically, one of the best ways to see North Korea. So, where did the borderland tour take us, and why was it so good?
The Borderlands of North Korea Route
This route sometimes varied, but there was a key path that I personally felt was the best. It was also the one we originally took as a “boys’ trip.” The route was: Yanji → Tumen → Changbai Village → Linjiang → Ji’an → Huanren → Dandong.
For the uninitiated, Yanji is the starting point for tours to Rason. Tumen gets you to northeast North Korea, such as Chongjin and similar areas, while Dandong connects you to Sinuiju and onwards to Pyongyang.
The Borderlands of North Korea Towns and Cities
Yanji
The capital of the Korean Autonomous Prefecture of China, Yanji feels like a fusion of North and South Korea. It boasts great street food and even features both North and South Korean restaurants. And yes you. Can eat dog here.
Tumen
This border town overlooks North Korea and is truly fascinating. We have used it as a launch point for tours into places like Chongjin in the DPRK.
Changbai Village
A majority-Korean town (despite the name, it’s more of a small city) with a nightclub that is literally in North Korea. It offers great views across the border and has a sketchy, intriguing vibe.
Linjiang
Probably my favorite of all the borderland cities. Linjiang looks like Vegas as you approach it, but once you arrive, you quickly realize it is far from Vegas. Much of what they do here seems to be for show, but it still offers spectacular views of the DPRK.
Ji’an
Once part of a unified Korea, Ji’an is home to many historical sites. This large Chinese city also offers incredible views across the border, particularly of Manpo, a town that Westerners cannot yet visit.
Huanren
This town was only part of the borderlands trip for one year. It features sites and mountains sacred to Koreans. At one point, it even had a hotel that resembled a Bond villain’s lair. Technically a Manchu town, although you wouldn’t know it now.
Dandong
What can I say about Dandong that I haven’t already said? This is the borderlands town, offering not just great views of North Korea but also serving as the bustling heart of North Korea-China relations. It is also where we launch our tours from—and indeed, somewhere I once happily lived. Yes, our apartment will be back.
Will the Borderlands of North Korea Tour Return?
I personally loved this tour. As I’ve mentioned, it was almost the perfect road trip, complete with a visit to Mount Paektu.
The sad reality, however, is that logistically and legally, this trip was extremely difficult to pull off.
And honestly, you can’t even argue with the reasoning. The borderlands of North Korea are some of the most dodgy and “eventful” borders in the world. Yet, while I might not be able to return here with tourists, I have revisited many of these towns. Some remain essential for North Korean tours, and the rest I will at least revisit on a personal basis.