With the announcement yesterday that Rason would be the first place in North Korea to reopen to tourism, this has brought up a very valid question: WTF is Rason, and should you visit the place?
As the foreigner who has probably been there more than anyone else, I felt it prudent not only to answer these questions but also to put my answers into The Ultimate Rason Guide!
What the Rason?
The Rason Special Economic Zone (SEZ) is a fascinating chapter in North Korea’s cautious flirtation with market reform. Established in 1991, it was one of the country’s first attempts to create a space for foreign investment and international trade. Positioned at the tri-border area of North Korea, China, and Russia, Rason was strategically chosen to facilitate cross-border commerce and capitalize on its access to the Sea of Japan—or rather, the East Sea of Korea.
Unlike the rest of the DPRK, Rason technically operates with a degree of economic autonomy. Laws here are tailored to attract foreign investors, particularly from China and Russia, who have set up ventures in fishing, shipping, and light manufacturing. Its ports have been a key asset, handling goods for neighboring countries while North Korea benefits from transit fees.
And it is for these reasons that some call it the Hong Kong of North Korea—I, though, am not one of those people!
Me and Rason
When I started Young Pioneer Tours in 2008, it wasn’t long before I discovered this separate part of North Korea, which not only had big dreams and ideas but also a real yearning for Western tourists. This led me to arrange my first trip over 10 years ago, after which I would return on many occasions for many reasons.
These included running a stall at the Rason Trade Fair in partnership with the now-doomed Paektu Cultural Exchange of Michael Spavor fame, as well as for other things like diving and even a casino tour.
What makes Rason different from “mainland” North Korea?
Technically, Rason has far fewer controls than you get in Pyongyang. This has meant trips here where I have quite literally been able to travel around and book my hotels and restaurants ad hoc and on the move. This might not sound like much, but regular DPRK watchers will truly understand how great this is.
And while there is less revolutionary zeal here, there are many more normal things that make the place great. These include changing money at “black market” rates, visiting a bank, and even going to a legal private market—something scarcely available in Pyongyang and beyond.
I’m aware that Simon from Koryo said it was “boring” here. But I personally do not agree, and the place holds a special spot in both my and YPT’s heart.
Top 5 Things to Do in Rason
And with these sentiments in mind, I have put together my top 5 things to do when you visit Rason!
- The Private Market – This is special for a lot of reasons, but for me, it’s all about trying the street food and the seafood. I haven’t seen better or cheaper anywhere in the world, with the option to have a restaurant cook it for you.
- Rajin Railway Station – Originally built by the Japanese, this station is a wet dream for train freaks like myself. It’s not available on most tours, but something I have at least been able to arrange.
- Rason Trade Fair – Rason is a special economic zone, so they run a trade fair here. Alas, sanctions mean most attendees are Chinese and Russian, but it’s an amazing thing to take part in or run a stall at.
- Rason Casino – I once got a cease and desist for writing that this was owned by Emperor Group of Hong Kong. So, erm, it’s not. It is, though, a very cool place filled with intrigue and the kind of stories I’d have to tell you in person.
- Three Points Pass – The tri-border area where you can pick up cell coverage in China and post your TikTok videos. It’s also a really cool spot marking the border between these former and current red powerhouses.
Stopping at 5 was really hard, with places like the stadium, Rajin Square, the port, and even the Czech Brewery in Rason all narrowly missing out.
Eating and Drinking in Rason
I’ve already covered the Rason Street Food scene in another article, but overall, it’s pretty damned good. There’s much more to the culinary scene of Rason than mere street food, with it even having its own place within North Korean cuisine.
The nexus of this is at Rajin Square, where there’s street food, a lot of BBQ, and a mixture of Chinese and Korean tin joints that even include a bit of KTV.
Restaurant-wise, there are more Chinese ones than in other places, as you’d expect, but also a few random unexpected ones. These include a Japanese restaurant, a Czech-run brewery, and what was, at least, my favorite—a Ukrainian restaurant. Sadly, whether all these still exist remains to be seen.
Expats in Rason?
Technically, the plans for Rason are really big, with economic planners telling me they want 2.5 million people there by 2030. Now, I’ll end the suspense here by telling you this is unlikely to happen.
That, though, doesn’t mean things aren’t happening here, with people from a number of nationalities living here. Back in the day, one of the most famous of these was a Korean-American pig farmer. Again, I expect things may have changed now.
I once considered moving here, even approaching some Rason officials with business ideas. The problem here, though, is that they want big investments—not a quaint little bar run by The Street Food Guy. Of course, this is a situation that may change, and the entrepreneur in me will certainly keep an eye on the place.
How Do You Get to Rason?
Despite the alleged visa-free status, the reality is that you’ll need to visit Rason on an organized tour from a travel agency, such as Young Pioneer Tours.
Trips to Rason typically start in Yanji, a great place that itself is an essential visit for any true Korea watchers. While there, it’s also worth checking out Tumen, a place where you can quite literally watch North Korea. From here, you’ll travel by bus over the border or to the border, where your local partners will pick you up.
So, while the naysayers might question why you’d visit Rason, and those of us in the industry are frankly shocked it opened before Dandong, that doesn’t mean Rason isn’t worth traveling