One of the oldest and dare I say most iconic venues, the “Old Stadium Phnom Penh” is still a mainstay of the Cambodian league system.
Currently home to both Tiffy Army and now one of the most successful local sides Boeung Ket. And this was what brought me here, watching my friend Connor Nestor’s first match in charge of the later.
To read about watching football in Cambodia click here.
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What the Old Stadium Phnom Penh?
The Old Stadium in Phnom Penh is one of Cambodia’s hidden gems, a relic of the 1960s that has witnessed the country’s turbulent history. Designed by celebrated architect Vann Molyvann during Prince Sihanouk’s vision of modern Cambodia, the stadium once hosted major sporting events and gatherings. During the Khmer Rouge era, it fell into disuse, like much of the country’s infrastructure, but it remained standing – although with very little improvements.
Today, it’s a gritty yet charming place where locals gather for football matches, exercise, or casual hangouts. While it’s no longer as grand as its glory days, the stadium is alive with daily activity, especially at sunrise and sunset when Phnom Penh’s energy seems to concentrate here. The Old Stadium might lack the polish of modern arenas, but its layers of history, sweat, and spirit make it a must-see for anyone looking to understand the true heart of Cambodia.
It is though less iconic than the Olympic Stadium.
What’s it like watching football at the Old Stadium
As football stadiums in Cambodia go the Old Stadium is not exactly one of the best, in spite of its history. Set up with 4 sides of seats there is actually only one semi-covered stand. This is a problem whenever it rains, which is all the time in Cambodia.
And as for the other 3 sides? Well 2 are closed and 1 is under renovation. This means that technically at least you could get 10,000 plus in there but in reality rarely do more than a few thousand attend. Some that do visit though are the Boeung Ket ultras, who like other ultras within the country do sing for the whole match.
Entrance is just a few dollars, although I was lucky enough to get free entry to the match. My journalistic credentials and friends in high places really go a long way! Although this saving was negated by the fact I purchased a few shirts.
Boeung Ket 0 Angkor Tiger 0
After watching an awful lot of matches in Cambodia, which has included the Cambodian Premier League CPL 2, and even the non-league rounds of the Hun Sen Cup. And you know what? This was probably the most boring match I have ever watched.
Actually the first half went pretty well fro Boeung Ket, but they were lucky to get a point in the end against one of the poorer sides in Cambodia. No doubt Connor will be happy that he didn’t lose his first match, but will see lots of room for improvement.
Street Food Old Stadium
In the car park outside of the stadium they actually do pretty good of creating a bit of atmosphere. Firstly there are a few stands selling Boeung Ket shirts. These range from $18-22 but alas did not come in big man sizes. Apparently they do have a club shop still, although alas not their own stadium.
And there is huge amount of Khmer BBQ for sale, this includes all the favorite meats served with sweet chili sauce and the huge wooden food spears. They also had the legendary peppered eggs that cost 50 cents and are a mainstay of the Battambang Street Food scene.
Can you drink at Old Stadium Phnom Penh?
You most certainly can, although in line with other football stadiums in Cambodia you cannot take cans, or bottles into the match. This means having your beer poured on ice into a plastic glass.
Beer on ice is a bit of an acquired taste, but with a hangover like I had any injection of alcohol was welcome at the time.
And that is Old Stadium Phnom Penh, far form the best stadium in the world, or even Cambodia, but hey there are worse ways to spend a Sunday.